in the end Tenerife had its sunkissed moments although not without unwanted dramas - away from the main tourist strips, it is an astonishing island of forests, wilderness, dunes, lunar landscapes, ash fields, with constantly changing vegetation - at times almost English in feel, at others more like the Mojave or Pyrenees. we covered a fair bit of the old island in a clunky Ford Ka - getting that around the mountains bends was character-building (and relationship-testing..) but the car hire (Orlando) were fantastic. 29€ all in for 4 days, completed paperwork in all of 5 minutes. Teide was rammed of course, so we never made it up the teleferico (cable car) which was sold out, but the park is next-level in any case. Icod de los vinos and La Laguna are nice towns too, throwbacks to sleepy 'colonial' Spain. I found myself missing the Atlantic a lot, the freshness and the breeze. I think you begin to appreciate greenery and basic oxygen after any length of time in BCN. We stayed at the aparthotel los dragos in puerto de santiago which was very good (awful raw frankfurter breakfast aside) and they were very helpful when my phone vanished (no pix sadly). I overheard on the tarmac bus that some pals of the loud american 'spring break' kids on our plane had been chucked out of the same hotel (which warmed my heart). I cannot lie, there are not a lot of evening options at PdS/los gigantes, so we restricted ourselves to the 'Route 66' live music bar down the road, which was very funny (but also very friendly) - 3 nights of covers bands from UK, Belgium, Italy playing Santana, the Killers and Eagles to elderly (and not so elderly) Scots and Scandinavians sat around the tables. Definitely worth supporting if you're in the area. And that was as hedonistic as it got! Comparing with ibiza, england, cyprus and other islands, I think it is interesting how many are divided between north and south, physically and psychologically. Not entirely sure why that is but I certainly got a flavour of Tenerife's real diversity. I'm sure we will be back!