Been back from our trip a few days now, we were there from 14-21st October. Glad to say we got very lucky with the weather - I was getting bothered in the run up to leaving as we were forecast a lot of rain and storms. Thankfully after one bad afternoon on the day after we arrived and some more rain overnight things cleared and it was just perfect - mid twenties generally, a bit cloudy on some days but amazing compared to what it had been forecast!
The gamble really paid off as the island was very sleepy and the beaches were quiet. Driving was never an issue luckily - the roads are very narrow in some cases and in peak season I can imagine it being a nightmare, but we barely encountered much, just a few fellow tourists here and there. All the locals in the hotel and restaurants were very friendly and warm - even when our 1 year old decided to scream the place down on a few occasions! Favourite beach was cala saona but to be honest all the beaches were beautiful - Migjorn, illetes and Es Pujols were also visited - Illetes is breathtaking (but make sure you pack a picnic out of season as there were no restaurants open when we were there)....I was a bit worried that we'd struggle to find much open so late in the season but I was pleasantly surprised - here are a few of the places we ate at:
Restaurante Sol - Cala Saona. Ate here twice in the end as it was on our fave beach. First time we just did salads and a few bits to share which was really good - ordered ensalada mixta, 3 mains to share and had 2 glasses cava, canas and desserts - was around 120 euros. Second time we did paella de mariscos for 2 and they remembered us so service was great. Similar prices but given free boozy sorbetes for dessert and chupitos as well. Paella was up to standard, could have eaten it twice over was really good. There was a small chiringuito on the other side of the beach which we had drinks at later - hierbas here was home made and delicious. They did food as well which looked great but we didn't sample.
Sa Palmera - Es Pujols - There was less open round this way, you could tell loads of places had already closed down for the season, but this place did the job. Small and family run, plenty of locals eating here too which is a good sign. We had several canas, pan con aioli, I had a plate of sardines and my mrs had a plate of calamari all with chips and salad - 40 euros all in - great value! Sardines were amazing loads of flavour and a generous portion too.
Restaurante Es Calo - Es Calo - This place was recommended online somewhere - weather was so so on this day, was still early in the trip but sun was just about out so decided to settle in for lunch. Baby was really playing up here initially but they were great with her bringing her bread and toys etc and we got her to settle down. They specialised in fish/rice dishes. We went for "arroz a la marinera" which was essentially a brothy paella of sorts - was sensational. We had this as well as desserts, canas coffees etc. Think it was 115 euros all in. This place was a little out of the way but nowhere is far in Formentera!
Would gladly eat at any of these again. Also worth a mention - kiosko 62 - little chiringuito on Migjorn, little on the trendy side - very hippy and a core crowd of regulars singing along to music. A cool place to hang out and have a drink, although at 7 euros for 2 bottles of estrella galicia not the cheapest!
Really fell in love with Formentera would look to go similar time next year again if we can get a similar deal on accommodation!